Rockie Mountain Tour

Friday 19th October Vancouver to Vale Mount.

We started out on our Key West trip to the Rockie Mountains at 7.15 on a dark, damp Friday morning. The drive into the city was uneventful and the traffic fairly light. The dawn light was slowly lighting up the sky but only to reveal a grey, damp day as we arrived at , the Burrard Sky train station our departure point.Our tour was a Key West tour and was ready waiting. This was the last tour of the season and we were only 20 people on a 48 seater bus. Our driver was Steven and our tour guide Brad.

We left Vancouver driving west and headed for the Trans Canada Highway, this is the major highway that crosses Canada East to West. As we drive through the flat farmed landscape by the Fraser river, flanked by the Coast Mountains towards Chilliwack the clouds begin to break and we see glimpses of blue sky. The Coast Mountains are clothed with dark green spruce trees and birch trees in brilliant autumnal ochers and yellows.

Our first stop was at the small town of Hope and we run through the rain to the Blue Moose cafe a reviving coffee. The earlier promise from blue sky had dissolved to this downpour of rain. Low clouds hugged the mountain sides and obscure our views. We drive on to Kamloops for lunch at a restaurant with a view over the town and Thompson river. Kamloops is an Indian word meaning 'the meeting of the rivers'. Here the North and South Thompson Rivers meet. The Thompson eventually becomes the Fraser River.

Davy Thompson was a cartographer who mapped large areas of British Columbia and his maps were so accurate they were used up until the 1950's

By now the weather had improved but the granite mountain sides glistens with rain water dripping down their sides. We change Highways and drive into the Mountains. Gaps in the clouds reveal fresh snow on the peaks. The highway slowly climbs higher, we meet the snow line on the mountain sides and it begins to snow. Its a good job we packed cold weather clothes and the bus had brand new snow tires.
Later as we descend the east side of the Coast mountain the terrain changes and becomes more arid. The snow on the trees slowly disappears and the sun begins to break through the clouds lighting up the ochers of tree leaves on the Birch trees. Great track of the spruce trees in the Forrest have been devastated by the Mountain Pine Beetle. It eat into the tree trunks and its mouth has a fungus that affects the trees ability to take up water. The dead trees have to be felled and cleared. Some of the wood that is stained blue by the beetle is in great demand in Asia.

We travel on north east the mountains here have very little vegetation on their sides They are rather like the Welsh mountains of the UK. At about 3.30 disaster struck and we come to a total halt. Ahead there had been a fatal accident and we are struck for nearly 3 hours. Every one accepts the situation and is good natured about the enforced stop. People gather on the road sides from the cars trucks and our bus and spend time chatting.

When we eventually get moving the sun is setting and the temperature drops rapidly. Steven drives on through the dark road for another two hours to our first over night stop, Vale Mount Motel. Brad, our tour guide, phones ahead to arrange for the restaurant to stay open so we can have a meal.

Vale Mount is just a very small isolated and unimpressive town in the Rockie Mountain Trench. This is the broad valley between the Cariboo Mountain range in the west, the Monashee's to the south and the Rockie Mountains to the east. It's nestled at the base of Canoe Mountain. We stay at the Canoe Mountain Lodge. Our night here was not too comfortable as the room kept us awake with its constant noises. After a good typical Canadian breakfast we all board the coach and set off once more.

Saturday 20th Vale Mount to Lake Louise.

The temperature was 2 degrees as we set off. The early morning fog was slowly dispersing from the mountain peaks leaving them bathed in the morning sun. The bus is fresh and clean all the crud from yesterdays rain washed away by Steven. Brad tells us to keep an eye out for animals as dawn and dusk is the best time to spot the when they are foraging for food.

We travel a short distance along the Rockie Mountain Trench and cross the Fraser river once more and head East into the Rockie Mountains

The Fraser River is the greatest salmon river in the world and here 13,00 kilometers from the sea is where they spawn and die. Onward we go towards Mount Robson and enter the Mount Robson National Park. Robson is the highest mountain in British Columbia, 3554 metres high. Here the clouds are low and the sun less visible it obscures many of the mountain including Robson.
Looking up at the steepness of the rock face you wonder about the tenacity of the trees clinging to the rock with so little soil to nourish them. As we head further into the mountains frost and snow dust the branches of the trees. We pass Moose Lake which is really a widening of the Fraser River. The wide swampy area around the lake edge is a favourite place for moose to feed. Sadly they're not obliging today.

As we travel higher into the mountains the sun get brighter and the landscape more impressive. Colours become more intense in the mountain light. We continue to travel by the Fraser and get glimpses of it through the trees. Its colour now a deep jade, like British Columbia jade. It widens once more to become Yellow Head Lake and this is the head waters of the Fraser river. Yellow Head is an Indian name for a fabled mixed race Indian who had yellow hair. The lakes surface is glassy smooth and it reflex the surrounding Mountains, so beautiful.

Soon we are crossing the time zone and adjust our watches one hour ahead and we leave British Columbia behind and enter the Province of Alberta and the Jasper National Park. This is bear country.
Nearing the town of Jasper we pass a fully antlered male Elk feeding on the road verge. It's alone so Brad thinks the 'rutting ' season is now over. Steven stops the coach and carefully reverses for us to get photo shots through the coach windows.

The National Park are very strict about its rules being observed . They are all to conserve the beauty of the parks and their animals. Elks often gather in the small town with their harem of females, to mate. They somehow feel less vulnerable to wolf attack in these settings but they often cause problems for the towns inhabitants as they can be aggressive and protective of their female herd. Males often fight for dominance over the females. This Elk is quite unconcerned by our presence.

We drive on through Jasper and up to Maligne Canyon and Lake our first stop for the day. Maligne Canyon is an extraordinary limestone canyon 180 feet deep in places and not more than a metre wide in places The rushing tumbling water has carved and gouged out deep into it's walls to carve intricate shapes until it spills into the Maligne river.

The walk around the canyon edge and across its bridges is bracing with ice on the handrails and the information boards. I'm very grateful for my warm jacket and the fur ear muff Darrin brought me from New York. On the way up to Maligne lake the snow gets thicker and the light is fantastic. We stop at Medicine lake on the way up. Here the lake is freezing over already.

Maligne Lake has an early 3inches of snow already. Although the temperature is zero it doesn't feel too cold as the air is dry and the snow is crisp.

'Maligne Lake is the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. Ringed by snow-and-ice-capped mountains, the 22 km long lake stretches past serene Spirit Island right to the melt-water channels of Coronet Glacier' The island trips are closed for the season unfortunately.

While walking around the edge of the lake the clouds roll in and the temperature drops rapidly. We drive back to the town of Jasper and have a little free time and find a restaurant for lunch. We fins an Earls and have lunch. The restaurant is all decked out for Halloween with fake cobwebs, spiders and bats etc.

Jasper is a small town. It's beginnings were back in 1911 with the tents and shacks of the railway construction. Its named after Jasper Hawkes who managed the Fur trade outpost in Athabasca Valley. An old steam train standing in front of the station. Naturally Dave wants a Photo shot!

Strange people here a Bride and Groom arrived walked to the railway tracks and have their photos taken! Elk wander freely around the town and we see a group of female while we are driving out. The houses here are mostly of 1950's vintage due to the restrictions of the town council.

Leaving Jasper we drive south to the Icefield Parkway and past the Columbia Icefields. A collection of large Glacial Unfortunately the Icefield's tour we were to go on has closed early due to the early snows and it's just too cold. We drive on towards Lake Louise past the Athabasca River Its blue greens colour an optical illusion caused by microscopic dust particles from the mountain rock that is washed down and suspended in the waters of the lakes and rivers. The light hits the particles and reflects back the colour. The coach stops to allow us to visit the spectacular Sunwapter Falls and as we watch the falls the overcast sky starts snowing. These are also limestone formation with deep cut channelsWe follow the road by the side of the 'Endless' mountain range These are at the edge of Teutonic plates and are being pushed upwards. One side has steep rugged Cliff sides and the other side more gentle slopes.We drive on into the Banff National Park. The temperature outside the bus is zero and it starts to snow again. at about 5.40 Steven slows and stops the coach. There is a stationary car ahead and sometime this indicates an animal on the road side. Sure enough there is a black bear ambling along the road verge near the tree line. It's not concerned or worried about us being there so Steven very slowly follows him so we get good views and photo opportunities

Our arrival at lake Louise Inn is a pleasant surprise. Our room is actually a small apartment, with bedroom, bathroom a pleasant sitting room with log fire and small kitchenette. We settle in then go for a meal in one of the inns three restaurants.

Sunday 21October Lake Louise

We leave the comfort of our little apartment at 7am and cross the frozen path to the main building of the Inn. The morning is still dark with streaks of light beginning to appear in the eastern sky. The dinning room is warm and welcoming. There are cereals, porridge, waffles, toast, fresh fruit, juices and a full range of hot food American style. The bacon's crisp but streaky, the eggs are scrambled, the sausage are the usual thin ones with no taste, diced sauteed potatoes and beans. We help ourselves and the waitress brings us coffee.

By 8.15 we all pile onto our bus and Steven drives us the short distance up to the Lake Louise Chateau. Five of the our tour passengers are staying here at the Chateau. They opted for the upgrade in hotel room but as we at the Inn are the last West Key tour of the season we have been given upgrades to the apartments.

Brad gives us some history about the Lake and chateau. The first European to see the lake was, Tom Wilson, working with the Railway survey team in 1883 he was taken to the lake by a native guide. The Indians called the lake 'The lake of Little Fishes' although Brad said an expert on local languages said it was 'Smelly Fishes'! Tom Wilson called it Emerald Lake because of it's astonishing emerald colour. The Geographical Board of Canada heard about the lake they decided to rename it Lake Louise after Queen Victoria's daughter Princess Louise, the wife of Canada's Governor General. The Marquis of Lorne. The first Chalet was a modest affair this was extended, then destroyed by fire before this chateau was built. It can accommodate 1000 guest. My feelings are that it's a real monstrosity grown out of all proportion in it's truly breathtaking setting.

The lake is such a startling colour, so smooth and reflecting all the surrounding mountains. The sun, rising hits the snow covered peaks and turns them to gold. Ice is beginning to form across the lake in the shade of the mountain. Soon it will be completely frozen and guests will be able to Ice skate on it. Walking around the lakes edge in the crisp morning air we marvel at the view. It is so spectacular and so very beautiful. Looking back at the Chateau I'm suddenly reminded of our new prison building home in Peterborough. The Chateau sit starkly in the landscape and at odds with it's beautiful setting.
After our walk the warmth of the Chateau was welcome and we had a brief look at it's Victorian splendour before having a hot drink to warm up.
Back on the bus we are soon back on the Trans Canada Highway travelling towards Banff. To help reduce accident with large animals the highway has tunnels under the road for them to pass saftly and for animal who shun dark enclosed spaces there are over passes. These measures are to help preserve human life as much as the animals. A collision with elk, moose or bear could be devastating.