Thursday morning, the ship will pass Cape Spencer and sail once more through the Icy Strait and Lynn Canal, through the Gastineau Channel towards Juneau. On departing from Juneau back through the Gastineau Channel we will sail a South Easterly course through Stephens Passage.
I wake to a judder the ship has halted and the engines are quite. I gingerly open the blind a tiny bit and drop it quickly. Its bit disconcerting to discover that where there was previously open water with snow-capped mountains in the distance there was now shops vehicles and people. Whoops.
We assemble and breakfast in the Ships Islands Café before disembarking in in the small town of Juneau. Nestled in the Northern most reaches of the Inside Passage Juneau is Alaska’s capital city. It was founded in the gold rush of 1880. Up until January 1959 Alaska was Russian territory. Purchased by the Americans it became the 49th State of the USA.
The indigenous people were mainly Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian Today it has a population of about 30,000 people and its economy is dependent on tourism, mining and fishing. It’s surrounded by wild rain forests, rugged mountains and coastal waterways. It’s the ideal place to see brown bears, eagles whales and other wild life. The easiest ways of getting to Juneau are sea and air.
We haven’t booked any of the Ship’s shore activities but onshore we find some independent activities. The cost less than the Cruise companies tours. None of us want to do anything spectacular, like dog shedding over the glacier or flying in a helicopter over glaciers so we opt for a bus tour around the city and out 13 miles to the Medenhall Glacier.
Our bus is an ancient white 33 seater, not a luxurious tourer, but quite adequate. Our guide, a young Korean American, is, unorthodox, informative and entertaining. He gives us a running commentary as we drive around the City, then out to Auke Lake to a small wooden Presbyterian Chapel built from Spruce logs overlooking the beautiful melt water lake. The entire Alter wall of the chapel is a spectacular ‘Living Stain Glass’ (ie clear glass overlooking a beautiful scene) window. Here in this simple log constructed chapel our driver Gary sits and plays on the churches piano a hauntingly beautiful piece of music.
At the Medenhall Glacier we have a small time slot, but quite enough, to explore and to visit the Visitors Center perched high on a rocky outcrop giving a good view of the Glacier and the melt water lakes. This is the largest of Juneau’s three ice fields. It’s been retreating at a rapid face over the last few years. The calving face is not as spectacular or as sparkling as the Hubbard.
Juneau itself is a little disappointing. Most of the stores along the street opposite the docks where the cruise ships come in actually belong to the cruise companies. Many are diamond and jewellery shops and others are tourist gift shop. Shop employees stand outside their shops hassling sightseers to enter.
Every thing you could possibly need to decorate for Christmas!
Most of the furs garments in this shop were sensible.....except this!
We all get back on board early this evening. The second formal dinner is tonight. We get togged up in our posh gear and go dine. The dessert menu tonight is just a single pudding, baked Alaska. All the Waiters assemble in the foyer of the Dinning room and enter in a parade to music with their table's Baked Alasksa held high. Each Alaska is decorated with a boiled sugar decoration and a sparkler.
The Cruise photographer (Ha ha me this time) is in attendance once more and we pose for yet more Photos.
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